Recipe: How to Make Scrambled Eggs

Scrambled Egg Perfection: The Basics
Source: The Good Egg: More Than 200 Fresh Approaches from Soup to Dessert by Marie Simmons

Choose the right pan: One that's heavy, preferably non-stick, or a well-seasoned cast-iron pan, according to the number of' eggs you are cooking. For 2 eggs, use a 6-inch pan; for 4 eggs, an 8-inch Pan; for 6 to 8 eggs, a 10-inch pan.

Break the eggs into a bowl instead of directly into the pan. That way, if a piece of shell falls into the egg, you can remove it more easily. The eggs are also easier to beat to the right consistency in a howl.

Season to taste: Before you mix the eggs, add a sprinkling of any of the following: kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper; freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, Asiago or other hard grating cheese; fresh thyme (lemon thyme is lovely) or rosemary leaves stripped from the stems or snipped fresh chives, fresh dill or sliced scallion greens. You can also add a bit of cream or milk for greater richness or a little water, which will create steam and make the eggs lighter and fluffier. Use no more than 1 tablespoon liquid per egg.

Beat the eggs briefly to the desired consistency streaky or uniformly mixed - - but for no more than 10 seconds so they remain thick, not liquefied. Use a wire whisk or fork. Don't use a silver fork, because the eggs will tarnish it.

Cook over low to medium-low heat: Heat the dry pan over low to medium-low heat, then add 1 scant teaspoon butter per egg. When the butter starts to sizzle, pour in the eggs all at once. Stir slowly and constantly with a round wooden spoon for large curds, or gently scrape the eggs with the flat edge of a wooden or heatproof rubber spatula to create soft, fluffy curds. For small, moist curds, stir rapidly with a fork. Tilt the pan as necessary to distribute the runny uncooked egg into the set curds.

Serve immediately: Residual heat in the pan can dry and toughen the eggs. As soon as they are done, remove the pan from the heat and spoon the eggs onto warm plates or a serving platter.