Recipe: Braised Turkey Thighs with Onions and Buttercup Squash

BRAISED TURKEY THIGHS WITH ONIONS AND BUTTERCUP SQUASH

"All the goodness of Thanksgiving dinner together in one dish, but without the pressure of having to roast an entire bird and prepare countless side dishes. As the turkey thighs braise in a fragrant blend of herbs, vegetables, freshly squeezed orange juice, and stock, you prepare a colorful mix of sauteed buttercup squash and sweet onion. Once the turkey is tender, it rests while the squash and onion mixture finishes cooking in the braising liquid. In the end, you've got a handsome dish resplendent with the flavors of autumn.

Most markets now sell a selection of turkey parts, but of all the ways to buy turkey - cutlets, breast, thighs, and ground - there's no contest for the most flavorful. Even if you're not a "dark meat" person on Thanksgiving, you can't deny the moist tenderness of braised turkey thighs. And they don't get at all oily or ropy, the way they often do when roasted. Serve with warm biscuits or soft rolls and cranberry chutney or sauce."

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/4 pound pancetta (about 8 thin slices), sliced into 1-inch-wide strips
4 bone-in, skin-on turkey thighs (3 1/3 to 4 pounds total)
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 medium yellow onion (about 6 ounces), coarsely chopped
1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped
1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
Three 4-inch leafy fresh thyme sprigs
Two 6-inch leafy fresh sage sprigs
1 bay leaf
1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1 cup chicken stock, homemade or store-bought
The onion-squash garnish
Rendered pancetta fat (from step 2)
Extra-virgin olive oil, if needed
2 large sweet onions (about 1 pound), such as Vidalia or Oso Sweet, coarsely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, minced
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 small buttercup of butternut squash (about 2 pounds,) peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch chunks
1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons loosely packed chopped sage.

Heat the oven to 300 degrees F.

CRISPING THE PANCETTA:
Melt the butter in a large skillet of shallow braising pan (12-inch) over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta slices and saute until crisp and brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the pancetta to a plate lined with paper towels to drain. Pour al but 1 tablespoon of the fat into a small jar or ramekin and reserve it for the onion-squash garnish. Set the pan aside.

BROWNING THE TURKEY:
Rinse the turkey thighs with cool water, and dry with paper towels. Season all over with salt and pepper. Return the skillet to medium-high heat and sear the thighs on both sides until they are deep golden brown, about 6 minutes per side. Do this in two batches if necessary, so as not to crowd the skillet, and remember to dry the second batch of turkey again before adding it to the skillet, because it won't brown well if it's damp. Transfer the turkey thighs to a plate and set aside. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat, and discard it.

THE AROMATICS AND BRAISING LIQUID:
Return the skillet to medium-high heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, and toss well. Saute until the vegetables are browned in spots, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the thyme, sage, bay leaf, and orange juice. Deglaze the skillet by bringing the orange juice to a strong simmer and scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dislodge and dissolve any treasured cooked-on bits. Continue simmering until the orange juice is reduced by about half, about 2 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a simmer.

THE BRAISE:
Return the turkey thighs, skin side down, to the skillet and pour any juices from the plate. Cover with parchment paper, pressing down so that the paper nearly touches the turkey and the edges of the paper reach over the sides of the skillet. Then cover with a tight-fitting lid or a large piece of foil, and slide the skillet into the lower third of the oven. Braise at a gentle simmer for 30 minutes, checking after the first 10 to 15 minutes that the liquid is simmering peacefully. If it is not, lower the oven heat 10 to 15 degrees. After the first half hour, turn the thighs over with tongs and continue braising for another 30 to 40 minutes, or until tender and the juices run clear when you pick the thighs with a knife and a meat thermometer registers about 170 degrees F.

WHILE THE TURKEY THIGHS BRAISE, PREPARE THE GARNISH:
Measure the reserved pancetta fat and spoon 2 tablespoons of it into another large skillet. If there's less than 2 tablespoons, add enough olive oil to make up the difference. Heat over medium-high heat until the fat slides easily across the pan. Add the onions and garlic, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and toss the vegetables in the fat. Saute, stirring often, until well browned, about 12 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside. Add the butter to the skillet and melt it. Add the squash, toss to coat with butter, and saute, tossing often, until browned, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside until the turkey is done.

STRAINING THE BRAISING LIQUID:
When the turkey is tender, remove the thighs from the skillet and set them on a platter or a deep serving dish. Cover loosely with foil to keep warm. Strain the braising juices into a bowl or measuring cup, pressing on the vegetables to extract all the juices. Discard the vegetables. Let the juices settle for a minute or two, and skim the clear surface fat from the juices using a wide spoon. Alternatively, you can skim the clear surface fat from the juices using a wide spoon. Alternatively, you can separate the fat from the juices using a gravy separator.

BRAISING THE GARNISH:
Return the squash to medium-high heat. Add the reserved onion-garlic mixture, toss to combine, and saute for 2 minutes. Add the skimmed braising juices to the skillet, along with 2 tablespoons of parsley and the sage. Stir well to combine, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the squash is tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, about 15 minutes. If you have trouble maintaining a gentle braise, place the skillet on a heat diffuser.

THE FINISH:
Crumble the reserved pancetta with your hands. Uncover the skillet, raise the heat to high, and add the crumbled pancetta, and bring to a rapid simmer. Simmer the garnish for 2 minutes to thicken it up some and melt all the flavors. Taste for salt and pepper. Spoon over the turkey thighs, sprinkle the dish with the remaining 2 tablespoons parsley, and serve.

WINE NOTES:
As with Thanksgiving dinner, braised turkey pairs well with a wide range of wines - dry fruity wines without oak (Riesling from Germany and Alsace), dry roses from France and California, and medium-bodied reds (Pinot Noir from California and Oregon).

Makes 4 to 6 servings
Source: All About Braising: The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking by Molly Stevens