Recipe: Tomato Soup Base, Cream of Tomato Soup, Tortilla Soup and Cioppino

VERSATILE TOMATO SOUP BASE
Freeze-ahead, makes 14 cups

3 Walla Walla onions (2 1/2 pounds) cut into 1/4- to 1/2-inch dice, about 6 1/2 cups packed
1 medium celery stalk (3 ounces) cut into 1/4-inch dice, about 2/3 cup
1/4 cup olive oil
1 large red bell pepper (1/2 pound) cut into 1/4-inch dice, about 1 1/4 cups
20 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped, about 1/2 cup (20 to 24)
6 pounds tomatoes (very ripe garden or farmers market varieties such as Early Girl, Roma or Beefsteak), cored, peeled (see note*), seeded and chopped into 3/4- to 1-inch pieces, about 14 cups
2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

In a large stockpot over medium-high heat, cook the onions and celery in the olive oil until translucent and almost tender, 10 minutes. Do not brown.

Stir in the bell pepper and garlic; cook 5 minutes.

Add tomatoes, salt and white pepper. Cover and bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium and simmer for 10 minutes, covered. Allow base to cool.

For maximum convenience, freeze in 2-cup amounts using heavy-duty self-sealing freezer bags.

*Note: To peel or not to peel. I'm lazy and do not peel and seed tomatoes before cooking with them, even though many recipes ask for this step. My method of seeding tomatoes is to throw away the seeds that are left on the cutting board after chopping. My grandmother would be appalled, however, so I offer instructions to all proper prep cooks for peeling, which I feel is more important than seeding.

To peel tomatoes you will need a pot of simmering water and a bowl of ice cold water. Core the top of the tomatoes to remove the stem, and with the tip of a knife mark the bottom with an X. Immerse tomatoes in the boiling water for 30 seconds and immediately transfer them to the ice cold water. The skins will slip off easily.

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CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP
Makes 8 cups

4 slices bacon
1 large carrot, peeled and finely chopped, 2/3 cup
6 cups Versatile Tomato Soup Base (see recipe above, thaw fully if frozen)
1 cup water
1 fresh bay leaf
3/4 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1/3 cup heavy (whipping) cream
Kosher salt and black pepper

In a medium pot cook the bacon over medium-low heat until crisp, about 5 minutes, turning frequently. Drain bacon on paper towels; remove all but 1 tablespoon fat from pot. Chop bacon; reserve.

Add carrot to pot; cook over medium-high heat, stirring until tender, 5 minutes.

Add soup base, water, bay leaf, thyme and reserved bacon. Cover; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer; cook 15 minutes. Remove from heat; remove the bay leaf and add cream.

Using an immersion blender or conventional blender, puree soup until smooth. Taste and add salt and pepper if needed.

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SHORT-CUT TORTILLA SOUP
Makes scant 7 cups without chicken, 8 1/2 cups with chicken

1 cup vegetable oil
5 (6 inch) corn tortillas, halved, sliced crosswise into 3/8-inch strips
1 teaspoon crushed chipotle chile pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon dried oregano
4 cups Versatile Tomato Soup Base (see recipe above, thaw fully if frozen)
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 1/2 cups cooked shredded skinless chicken
GARNISHES:
1 avocado, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
3/4 cup crumbled queso fresco

In a medium saucepan, heat oil over medium-high heat to 350 degrees F on a deep-fat frying thermometer; be sure your pan is large enough to allow the oil to bubble up without overflowing.

Cook the tortilla strips in 3 or 4 batches in the hot oil, stirring frequently, until crisp, 45 seconds to 1 minute a batch. Remove tortilla strips using tongs; drain on paper towels.

Transfer 2 tablespoons of the oil to a large stockpot. Reserve the remaining oil for another use or discard. Put the stockpot over medium-high heat and stir in the crushed chipotle. Add the cumin and oregano so the flavors of the spices can infuse the oil. Add soup base no more than 20 seconds after spices to reduce heat and keep spices from burning.

Add stock; cover and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook 10 minutes.

Crush 1/2 of the tortilla strips and add to soup; cook 5 minutes. (If adding chicken, stir it all in with tortilla strips.)

Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with avocado, cilantro, queso fresco and remaining tortilla strips.

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CIOPPINO
Makes 10 cups

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small fennel bulb (about 3/4 pound total weight before trimming), stalks trimmed, halved, cored and thinly sliced, 2 cups
1/4 teaspoon saffron threads, packed
3 cups Versatile Tomato Soup Base (see recipe above, thaw fully if frozen)
2 cups dry white wine
1 (8 ounce) bottle clam juice
1 fresh bay leaf
1 large pinch red pepper flakes (optional)
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 1/2 pounds boneless skinless firm-fleshed fish fillets (any combination such as halibut, cod, snapper), cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
1 1/2 pounds clams or mussels
1/2 pound large or medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley

In a large stockpot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add fennel; cook, stirring frequently, until very soft, about 10 minutes.

Crumble saffron onto fennel. Stir in the tomato soup base, wine, clam juice, bay leaf, pepper flakes, salt and white pepper. Cover; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer; add fish fillet pieces and clams or mussels. Cover and cook for 4 to 5 minutes or until most of shellfish are open.

Add shrimp; cook 2 more minutes until shrimp are opaque. Discard any shells that haven't opened. Taste for seasoning, stir in parsley and serve immediately.

Source: FOODday, Tuesday, August 22, 2006